125 Gallon Tank Stand build and Set-up

[blatzphemy]

I'm new to the saltwater reefing world but plan on jumping in feet first. So far I've been collecting everything I'll need to get set up.

I'm currently building a stand for my 125 gallon (72''/20''/19'') and utilizing a 55 gallon for my sump/fuge (48''/13''/20'').

Check it out!



I wanted to have full access to the front without support beams getting in the way. I ended up doing this by using two 2x6's as a cross beam to take the "brunt" of the weight. I've seen other stands with no support beams what-so-ever; so, I feel confident.



I used a pocket jig to "toenail" some of the screws in for added support






I saved some serious cash by grabbing old furniture parts from IKEA's "As Is" section. I picked up those black all wood cabinet doors for two bucks a piece, no joke!


What might be the biggest challenge is building the "shell" around the base. In order to have full access I want to be able to pull the whole face off.



I used Liquid Nails and wooden dawdles throughout to better reinforce the stand.

When I bought most of the items I have it came with a lot of extras. I have a bunch of things I won't be using like a acrylic wet/dry sump and aquariums. Send me a message if you need anything, maybe we can just trade extras? Just ask, I might have it!

I also have a few sheets of 1/4'' 36x48 acrylic I plan on making a custom sump out of at a later date. I haven't decided on a design yet, but, a fuge is very important to me.

More to come...

[ccampo]

It looks strong enough to hold even a bigger and heavier tank.

Having access to that area is important and you found a good way to achieve that.

Keep the pictures coming...

[MitchReef]

I highly recommend that you seal the doors using a clear Spar Urethane so they don't break down with moisture and spillage. They will not last if they aren't sealed.

[philip_r5]

Very nice build so far. Wish you were around me to help with mine lol

[blatzphemy]

I know it's been awhile since I've updated. I've been gathering everything I need for the build. (When your wife doesn't let you spend it takers a lot of side work).

So far I've gotten a MP-60 based on some test results I saw in an independent study.


It seems like two MP10's would out perform the MP40 at around the same price. I opted for the MP60 because it was the best bang for the buck.

I also bought 96 LED's from reefledlights.com and inventronics drivers to drive them.

Skimmer, with a MAG 11


Deltec Calcium Reactor, I don't have the CO2 or the guages yet.


400 Watt Metal Halite... with two ballasts. Does anyone need this? Trade maybe?


6' T-5 lighting. Everything works and it has a splash guard. All aluminum. Anyone want to trade for this?


ORP sensor. Anyone need it?


800w heater for the final build


I also bought an APEX Controller, salt, test kits exe.

I'm conflicted on how I'm going to hang the lighting. I think I'm going to just get a 68'' piece of heatsink from heatsinkusa. I want to anodize it but it will be too large for a DIY.

I have a bunch of 36x48 acrylic to build the sump and custom ATO reservoir. Anyone a pro at cutting it?

[blatzphemy]

I highly recommend that you seal the doors using a clear Spar Urethane so they don't break down with moisture and spillage. They will not last if they aren't sealed.

I used some sealant from homedepot. My biggest hang up now is finding a place to put the electronics panel inside the stand. I'm having to rebuild my whole "shell" in order to make an access.

Very nice build so far. Wish you were around me to help with mine lol

I'm around, what do you need help with? I'm on the east side of town; Lake Nona.

@CCAMPO- thanks for the input!

[Iggy]

Be careful with that study you used for flow comparisons; it doesn't consider quality of flow. Here is a video that discusses this aspect.



Also, since the chart above was made the Tunze 6105 has been corrected to deliver the advertised flow and the 6205 and 6305 models will have fixes in the next few months. I'd like to see the authors of the test re-test with the fixes and attempt to quantify the flow-to-turbulence ratio for each tested device.

If you plan on keeping/using the Calcium Reactor, you might want to hang on to the ORP probe.

Anodizing the heatsink will reduce it's cooling capacity so buy a slightly bigger heat sink if that's your plan. Alternatively, you could fab up a small piece of AL trim and anodize only that bit. Check on the AL extrusions from 80/20 and consider framing the heatsink with the extrusions; might be a good choice for you.

Best to use a table saw with a blade designed for plastic for your rough cuts. Make sure to sand/polish/buff out all of the saw marks before attempting to bond the pieces together. Use Weldon #3 or #4 for bonding. The higher number Weldons have less integrity. If you need a local source for the plastics/chemicals, I've used Acrylics Plus in Longwood but there are a couple of others in the area too.

[blatzphemy]

I think my last post was deleted?

[blatzphemy]

Ugh, I don't know what happened to my post...

Iggy,

Thanks for the response, that video is the one Tunze actually made in response to the study. Seen HERE. I know Tunze has more of a directional flow but they have boasted for years about how energy efficient their pumps are. Even if you factor using the APEX to control the tunze's the vortechs are still a much better value.

I was kind thinking about doing something like this...








The heat sinks are actually kinda cheap (around 71 cents a piece) I would just need the acrylic custom cut or take a risk with a router.

[blatzphemy]

Also, why would I hang on to the ORP probe for the calcium reactor? The APEX has a slot for one but, I was thinking I would just need two PH probes?

[Iggy]

Iggy,

Thanks for the response, that video is the one Tunze actually made in response to the study. Seen HERE. I know Tunze has more of a directional flow but they have boasted for years about how energy efficient their pumps are. Even if you factor using the APEX to control the tunze's the vortechs are still a much better value.

I read the original article too and wasn't surprised it was sponsored by EcoMarine. I don't see the value proposition that you do. For me, the video reminds me that while a given pump might move a given volume of water mathematically, it doesn't directly contribute to that elusive quality of "flow". The Tunze pumps seems to move the total volume of dye across the entire tank where as the Vortechs fall short. Which is a better value? I don't know. Personally, I don't want either inside of my tank I just don't think a definitive "Brand X is the best value" statement can be made.

I was kind thinking about doing something like this...

Nice looking fixture, but.... think it could use any more fans? I wonder how much 20 60mm SilentX and 1 120mm fans/grills would set you back vs. the extra cost of a monster heat sink? I manage to cool 1/3 of the LEDs in that fixture with 2 60mm fans and no 120mm fans. Personally, I can't stand fan noise but more importantly should a fan fail, you may lose LEDs to heat damage unless you monitor the temps of the each heatsink (3).

Many people who use a calcium reactor recommend injecting ozone so measuring your ORP might be important. I'm no expert here.... so, just a thought.

[blatzphemy]

I'm glad you said something, I had no idea.

The fixture just has the one fan at the top. The holes are just for escaping air. I plan on building a 48'' fixture and using 3 120mm fans. I also bought this to control them http://www.ebay.com/itm/180699682474...#ht_5643wt_905
It will spin the fans based on the heat. I also plan on using 4 pieces of the 1.8 heatsinks from heatsink USA.

Anyone know a good place to get anodizing done? I have looked into doing it DIY but I have no idea what I would do with a bunch of acid with black food coloring when I'm done.

[philip_r5]

Where did you find this LED idea? I would like to get a cost of the build. It looks nice however, I would like to know the actual cost of doing that vs buying a complete one already.

That controller on ebay looks awesome. I like the fact that it has a alarm on it for temp.

[Jake007]

Welcome to the club and addiction!
It looks like you are doing allot of planning and not afraid to work on some DIY. Your stand, tank, and lights are coming along great! This is an interesting hobby because it takes all kinds of tallents to make it work. Once you have your fish and corals going, it is really something to be proud of and enjoy. Keep up the good work and keep sharing the progress pictures.

[blatzphemy]

Thanks!

The LED Build is on Reef Central. The guy who made it's name is Plankton99. (I'd send you a link but, you know)

His price list is going to be off quite a bit. He bought the LEDs back around 09-10 and probably spent a lot on them. I'm building a larger fixture and it's still going to cost me less than a grand, even with getting everything anodized. If you want a link to the heat sinks he used I can get it for you. I think you're better off buying the stuff on heatsinkusa. a few large pieces work a lot better then several small pieces. You can get some really good deals on LEDreeflights.com The build shouldn't cost much more than a typical LED build; just add two pieces of acrylic and some standoffs and that should be around the same price. I have done a lot of searching and it seems like http://www.tapplastics.com/ has the best prices. They will even customize stuff for you. I'm thinking about just ordering a few custom pieces. The 4.5'' hole-saw alone costs around 38 bucks.

Does anyone have a router? I need to round off the edges of some acrylic. I can't justify spending 60 bucks on a router for one job.

Also, has anyone had anything anodized? If so where?

[blatzphemy]

New pictures!

I received my LED's and MP60 today. I must have looked like a kid on Christmas morning.

Here's some shots!






More to come...!

[Iggy]

I have a router you can use. I'm not sure if I have the profile you want though. I think you want a full bull nose or possibly two half bull noses. fwiw, you might want to call Acrylics Plus. They have a very large CNC router and can cut your plastic much better than I could with simple tools. That said, you're more than welcome to use the router if you like.

I had some paintball gear anodized years back. I started calling places until I found one that said "Sure, we can do that.". Here's a local (to me) shop that seems perfect: http://www.alsanodizing.com/ HTH.

[philip_r5]

Looks fun. Take pics and info on your build. Maybe throw it in a thread of its own for a DIY. It would be very helpful to many people for ideas, thoughts, and structure.

[blatzphemy]

I have a router you can use. I'm not sure if I have the profile you want though. I think you want a full bull nose or possibly two half bull noses. fwiw, you might want to call Acrylics Plus. They have a very large CNC router and can cut your plastic much better than I could with simple tools. That said, you're more than welcome to use the router if you like.

I had some paintball gear anodized years back. I started calling places until I found one that said "Sure, we can do that.". Here's a local (to me) shop that seems perfect: http://www.alsanodizing.com/ HTH.

Sorry I missed this, the subscriptions a little screwy. This build had to come to a grinding halt (see today's thread). I will pick back up soon. Thank you for the offer! A new build thread coming soon.